I'm a bit scared of being a real senior next year because the British women are so strong so I really wanted to start putting in some good senior performances this year while there wasn't so much pressure. I was 11th at the CWIF so I thought top 10 would be a good result for the British Bouldering Championships.
My mum was judging so we had to get to Graves park early for the men's qualifiers, but it was great to watch and get a look at the wall before going into isolation.
I was out around the middle knowing a lot of people had topped the first problem but not always on the first attempt so I went out relatively confidently knowing I should be able to top it, but I was bit horrified to find a slab with hardly any holds, just a big volume to traverse before a simpler top section. There are never problems like this at my local walls so I just jumped on and hoped it would get more obvious. It definitely didn't! I had 6 goes not really getting anywhere but on my 7th something worked, I still have no idea what but I managed to get on top of the volume and do a sketchy shuffle a long it and top the problem.
I was really relieved but knew I needed to do a bit better on the next 4 problems.
The second problem was way more my style and I got the bonus first go but was really frustrated not to top it. It was just a load of crimps so I really thought I should be able to, I found out later that it was absolutely nails and only Shauna and Alex had topped it, so I let myself off.
I managed to flash the third one though it was a bit of a fight but then get nowhere on the fourth. By the fifth problem I was pleased to be back on a slab again and was really made up to top this problem after a really awkward match on the penultimate hold.
I finished qualifiers in 8th place with the top 20 progressing to semi's. Tara Hayes had an absolutely amazing qualifying round finishing in joint 3rd at only 16! What a beast!
(problem 5)
I was thankful we were staying the night in Sheffield as I was shattered and would never have managed a 6.30 start the next morning. Instead I got to wake up at 7.30 and have a monster breakfast before heading back to Graves park, which was already about 25 degrees at 9 am.
I was a lot more psyched for the semis but nervous I wouldn't hold my 8th place.
The first problem looked a lot more burly than anything the day before, big moves between slopers.
I got to the bonus on my first go, just, but then missed a small screw-on on the volume so fell. I was gutted as I knew it was a real fight and I thought I couldn't do it again, my second go was pretty rubbish and I felt close to shutting down but I made myself stand up straight and smile, which did pick me up a lot so I got back on determined and managed to top out on my third attempt.
(problem 1)
(My best attempt on problem 3)
The second problem was much easier with all 20 women topping and the other 2 problems were desperate so the first problem was crucial for the results after 4th place. Because I got it 3rd go I ended up in 5th place ! And 6 go through to finals ! Definitely making that my best comp day ever.
I was so happy, really surprised and a bit nervous to be in a final with 4 British senior team members and an American team member.
I felt pretty out of place in isolation but everyone was really nice and made sure I understood everything as I hadn't been in a big senior bouldering final before.
I didn't do much warming up as I was still quite warm from the semis and was so tired after trying really hard in both qualifiers and semis.
All the finalists were then introduced to the crowd supporting CAC http://www.climbersagainstcancer.org/ - a great cause with really nice t-shirts.
I was wrong though. They were well hard and a massive step up from any comp I've been in before.
I managed to get 1 bonus. I felt I should have been able to get higher on the other problems but I hadn't expected to be doing more climbing and was just too tired to pull hard.
I finished in 6th place, without a tan.
It was a great experience and I felt like the whole comp made me a better climber and I cant wait to get training again after a couple of days rest for much needed recovery.
Congrats to Shauna and Dave who both managed to retain their British Champion titles and my coach James Garden who came 2nd ! Bit gutted I didn't get to watch this happen.
Orrin Coley, another junior, also managed an awesome 10th place in a ridiculously strong men's field.
It was great to see the Probalm stand at cliffhanger and pick up some more of their extra strong stuff, as I had nearly finished mine before the finals after all the volumes in previous rounds leaving my skin very thin.
BMC report and full results here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/british-bouldering-championships-2013-report
The whole of the comp is also on youtube :
qualifiers http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WNoEUhTuys
semis http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lhzdi2meqJE
finals http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbQ4LuCzENc
