Nanjing 2014

   This year has been a big one for my climbing. I made the decision to switch from route climbing to bouldering and it has really paid off. I noticed improvements straight away by focussing on bouldering and getting stronger and now nearly a year later I have put my harness back on and I am much better at routes too.

   Since deciding to be primarily a boulderer I've been to two World Cups. My first was in Baku, Azerbaijan. I am not sure why I thought this would be a good idea for my first senior international as the travelling was hard work, eating was hard work, and then there was the climbing. But I don't regret it all, it was a great experience and I've been to Azerbaijan !
I came 27th with 1 flash and a massive flapper, definitely a result to be improved upon but not a bad debut.

Baku- photo by The Circuit Climbing

The Second Problem fought back

   My next World Cup was Laval in France. It was much easier to get to and slightly easier to find vegetarian food. It was also after my exams and I had been the previous year for the Junior competition so I felt much more relaxed. I topped 3 problems in 4 attempts and got 4 bonuses. I was really happy with how I had climbed. I kept making progress on the second problem and think I could have topped it with a little more time. I felt really comfy on the third problem and also flashed the last one, a dyno ! I needed to be a bit stronger for the 4th but I'm working on that. I finished 33rd (in a bigger field than Baku).

   The biggest part of my year was going to Nanjing, China for the Youth Olympic Games.
I have always wanted to be in the Olympics and even more so after getting to go to watch some of the events in London, so when I got the call from Rob saying I had been picked by the IFSC to be the British representative for the youth Olympics I was very happy! I know it isn't the actual Olympics but it is a step closer.
  Climbing was part of the Sports Lab with 3 other sports (Wushu, Skateboarding and Speed Skating). These sports were not run as a competition but as an exhibition to try and impress the public and the International Olympic Committee. There was also initiation time where the public and other athletes could have a go at the sports.
   The 16 climbers from all over the world were in Nanjing for 11 days and did 30 minutes exhibition time twice a day everyday (with 1 rest day), we also did a lot of climbing before and after because the boulders and routes were so good, and then a lot of the initiation time was pushing children up the wall so it was hard work (all in 40 degree heat). All of us were aching a lot and in need of a physio by about the 3rd day and skin was running low (though thanks to Probalm my wasn't too bad considering) but it was still the best experience of my life.
   We were treated like Usain Bolt signing autographs and featuring in many selfies. All of the climbers got on really well and I really hope we get to see each other again, and we really showed how good climbing is. Everyone seemed to love it and it was the busiest sport during the initiation time with many people coming to climb on multiple days.

The Wall

Not psyched for skateboarding

The last meal

                                         One of the Boulders for the exhibition 
 
   Since I got back from China I have mainly been training for the British Lead Climbing Championships. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get fit enough in time but I'm really enjoying being back on a rope and it's nice not to take a comp too seriously.
  The Depot Leeds summer boulder comp recently finished, it was a great comp with really nice problems and I really had to try hard to get the win.

the Depot Leeds

   I have also recently been sponsored by Chia Charge! Their flapjacks are amazing and the added chia seeds means more potassium, iron, fibre, protein and many more good things than a normal flapjack. I'm finding my training sessions last much longer and are better quality when I have a Chia Charge flapjack to nibble on.
If you want to try them click on the image of the flapjack to the right and use the code JWC10 to get a 10% discount.

Off to Baku

Today I start the journey to my first ever senior World Cup. Catching the National Express to Heathrow then flying to Baku, Azerbaijan at 10 am tomorrow morning.
Now all the planning is out the way I'm just excited to get there and compete with the best climbers in the World. I reckon it's going to be flipping hard but finding out what I have to do do compete at this level will help me train this summer so I'm ready for the next World cup i'm going to in June.

Over the past couple of months I really increased the amount of training I was doing, hoping to get much stronger before Baku, though it has been hard having to revise for my exams at the same time. I did have a little break over Easter and went to Mallorca, to sport climb outdoors for the first time. I spent most of the trip getting used to it and doing easy stuff, pretty much just 'active sunbathing', though on 4th and last day I had a go at a 7a+ and surprised myself. Once I had had a go finding all the holds, I didn't find it too hard at all and I was much less scared on a climb I actually had to think about. I really want to do more now and try some hard stuff.

I also recently got sponsorship off Beyond Hope for prAna and Metolious!! So happy to represent both these awesome companies.

                                            short video of me getting some comp prep in at different walls.

CWIF

A couple of weekends ago was the Climbing Works International Festival (CWIF). Last year I had been really ill on the Friday and still made it into semis but this year the competition looked much harder! There were many more climbers from other countries, especially in the womens, but fortunately this year I was ill on the Sunday before instead. I was still a lot lighter than normal for the qualifiers on Saturday but after a massive breakfast at the Premier Inn I wasn't feeling too bad. I was climbing in the morning session for the first time because of being in Sheffield now which suited me a lot better. I am definitely a morning person and I find it easier to sort out my nutrition in the mornings.
The qualifiers didn't go very well at all. I made a lot of mistakes from being nervous and failed to flash some of the easier problems. I did a couple I was pleased with and I really enjoyed the climbs but I have never not been in the semi-final of CWIF since I started doing it a couple of years ago and I really wanted to make it again but was very aware of how hard it was going to be.
After qualifiers I decided I probably hadn't made it and went for a picnic in the Botanical Gardens. I didn't even go back to the works to check the results after the pm session. While we were eating dinner though, I got a text showing the picture of the provisional results and I was in 19th! (20 make it into semis). I still didn't think i would be in the semis, I thought that was far to close to trust the provisional results. I checked the climbing works website about every 5 minutes for 3 hours waiting to see if I had definitely made it. When the results were eventually finalized I was in 20th, by 1 point. I wasn't too fussed about only just making it in, I much prefer the format of the semi-finals and have always struggled in the free for all 30 problem format.

Qualifiers. Photos by Dom Worrall

On the Sunday morning I went off to isolation. It was pretty cool to be warming up with loads of climbers I had only watched climb on the World Cup live-stream.
The first problem was pretty hard compared to last years first problem. I felt pretty rubbish on my first few goes, trying to go slowly and in control when i needed to just launch my leg out. I realized this on my 5th go and got the bonus and was moving up for the penultimate hold. I may have got further if i wasn't so stupid on my first 4 goes but then a lot of climbers better than me didn't get this bloc either.
I couldn't work out the second problem when i was on it, I probably just needed to be bendier.

Photo by Dom Worrall

And basically I embarrassed myself on the 3rd problem, reading the sequence wrong. The 5 minutes before the last problem I started very miserable, I have always improved my position loads in semis and I had only moved up 1 spot this year. By the end of the 5 minutes i was feeling determined, hoping to finish the comp well. And the wall was vertical, which is in my favorite range of wall angles. On my second go I was flinging myself at the last hold but my foot slipped. On my 4th go I held the last hold with one hand and couldn't match. By my fifth go I had about 15 seconds, I managed to grab the last hold with one hand with about 2 seconds to go and desperately swung for the match and managed to stick it! I have never been so surprised to top a boulder in my life! (this was quite obvious too).

                     

the last boulder

I ended up in 15th (or 16th behind Molly, the results have changed since I last looked). Anyway I was really pleased to do the last boulder and improve my position a lot.
Obviously I stayed to watch the finals, which was awesome as always. Well done to all the finalists!

In the week following CWIF the bouldering team had the chance to climb with the Slovenian and Dutch team as they had come over for CWIF. There were loads of world cup blocs set around the works for us to try. I struggled a lot, I felt too weak for some of the climbs but noticed big improvements on my dynos which I have been working on a lot. It was a great experience and got me pretty psyched despite being shut down on the day. I'm now training hard getting ready for my first ever world cup in Azerbaijan in 5 weeks !!

As well as training i also went climbing outside yesterday !!! I still hardly ever get outside but I'd love to do it a lot more because every time I go out i'm surprised by how much i enjoy it.
We went to Rubicon and i flashed A Bigger Prize 7a and got Kudos 7b. Good day considering I'm such a punter outdoors.

Next week is Varsity too ! Should be a fun comp and a nice way to end what feels like such a long term. And hopefully Sheffield Uni will win!
Go Hard or Go Hallam !

Then next weekend I'm off to Mallorca with the family for a rest and some sport climbing :)

Uni Comps and the World Cup Selection

At the end of last year I was selected for the GB senior bouldering team. It was totally unexpected, It had been a goal for a couple of years, but I expected the transition from junior lead to senior bouldering would take longer than a couple of weeks !

The first couple of team training sessions in November and December were really hard. Competing against the best women in the country on really different problems was such a change from being on of the oldest one the junior lead team. I really enjoyed the problems and the comp style of the sessions but i found it difficult. I didn't like being the worst, but it did make me go home more motivated every time.
I noticed improvements between the first and second trainings which was encouraging; the problems were starting to look possible even if I couldn't do them in the 5 minutes, but I still felt like a bit of a kid.

After a short break over Christmas I started comp training before the Rocfest and the team world cup selection event (this mostly involved trying hard problems and trying to flash new problems). A week before Rocfest I managed to hurt my elbow though, apparently from over-training (a bit worrying as this was the week of my exam!). It was just a muscle injury and I could climb on it with out making it worse but trying really hard on consecutive days really hurt, so in the Rocfest I struggled a bit.
The comp was great fun as always though and there was a cool set of problems but I made a few too many mistakes and ended up missing out on the final by 1 point ! I went home straight away in a bit of a strop, not staying to watch the finals, I regret that now as the finals are always awesome to watch and pretty inspiring. But after a couple of hours at home I was feeling better and looking forward to the training the next day.

At the beginning of February we had the first GB senior lead team meet at the Depot Nottingham. I hadn't done any endurance for ages and was pretty apprehensive, but it was loads of fun and a bit of a reminder that i cant neglect endurance training for too long.

NUBS (Northern University Bouldering Series) had been going on since October at various different walls, but the 12th of Feb was the last round at the Climbing Works. It was great to climb as part of the Sheffield University team especially as we won, I also managed to win the womens individual comp.

Last weekend was one i'd been nervous about for a while - the World Cup selection event at the castle. I know I'm not ready to do loads of world cups this year, the longest I've ever focused on bouldering before now is 2 months, but I still really wanted to show I was improving and was supposed to be on the team.
I had a bit of a dilemma when the British University Championships (BUCs) was announced to be the day before e selection event. I felt I should do BUCs because Sheffield Uni have given me a sports  scholarship and give me a lot of support but I didn't want to be tired for Sunday.
In the end I decided to do BUCs as realistically my situation for world cups wouldn't change that much at the trials.
So on Saturday I went to the Works with rest of Sheffield uni climbing team.
It was a standard comp - 25 problems and 3 hours.
I ran round the easier ones getting about 10 done in 20 minutes, but with so many people I eventually had to start joining queues. I was still doing ok for a while though, I flashed about 18 problems and still had about an hour left. But as I started rushing and getting on the harder problems I started making mistakes. There were rumors about the cut off score for the final and it was really getting to me. In a moment of panic I managed to top one of the hardest problems to get a score of 206 and make it into the final in 2nd place behind Nat Berry.
The final though was a massive disappointment, I expected a normal final with 4 blocs so when we were shown a traverse on the circuit board I was pretty gutted, especially after such a good qualifying set. The final was as bad as it sounded with hardly any separation so we all stayed in the same order.  I was a bit disappointed but second in my first BUCs wasn't too bad.
The Sheffield Uni team did great with Katie Maxwell 3rd and the boys team 2nd!

2nd place 

Sheff Uni Team

After a late finish I started travelling down to London, stopping off on the way for a huge meal. We got to our hotel around 11pm but it wasn't a mega early start. I ate tonnes for breakfast as the girls weren't climbing til 12 ish then we headed to the Castle.

I felt good warming up as I still felt pretty warm from the day before so I didn't do too much.  I was still pretty worried about the climbs expecting them to be far to hard for me but I was excited anyway.  

When I went out for the first problem I knew about half the women had topped it but looking at a tiny screw on on the volume as the starting hold I couldn't believe anyone had managed to pull on. I tried a few ways but couldn't get anywhere at all. I used to go to the team training sessions and think that if I couldn't pull on it was just because I wasn't good enough and not try many other ways but i'd learned from the last session that I probably was good enough if I could find the best way for me. I walked around the volume a bit and eventually found that you could hold the arete and the volume which made the first move fine. I managed to get to the bonus and was setting up for the last move when my foot slipped! (I think I was rushing too much). 

The next problem wasn't too bad until the last move where you had to stand up to an undercut on a slab. 

The next 2 problems I tried my best but didn't get the bonus.

I finished the first round in 4th out of the 6 women (way better than I expected). 

The second round was harder, I didn't get anywhere until the 3rd problem when I only made one move but it was enough to get the bonus. I got the bonus on the 4th as well. I'm fairly certain I came 6th in this round but I was pretty pleased anyway. After seeing the nutritionist at Sport Sheffield I've noticed I have a lot more energy on long days and I really felt the difference here, I managed to try really hard on the last problem after 2 days competing.

I was really pleased with the team selection. I hadn't expected to keep up as well as I did or get close to topping any problems. I still have a lot to work on and need to get a bit stronger but I can go to a World cup this year, which will be a great experience and show how good I really need to get.

training sesh at the Hangar- thought a video would be nice (taken at the end of the session which is why i keep falling off :) )

I'm now getting ready for CWIF which is going to be mega hard this year with loads of international climbers coming! But I'm going as part of the Banana Fingers team!! So pleased to be sponsored by such an awesome company, it's going to make climbing while at Uni a lot more manageable. 

check out their website here : http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/