Not a Junior Any More

The last comp before the end of the summer holidays was in Stavanger in Norway early in September.
This was my last ever lead comp as a junior and yet I still felt I was new to the team. I was determined to do well and finish the year on a high.
As usual we spent the Friday walking around town and exploring the place, and as usual there wasn’t a lot to do but it was nice to spend some time with the team and relax before the comp.

well psyched

It was a very early start on Saturday but at least breakfast was good.
The weather wasn’t great in Norway, but it was a lot nicer than inside the venue; which the wall shared with an ice rink!
We all put on extra layers as we walked in and started warming up.
My first route didn’t go so well, I was feeling the pressure of my last comp and got a bit nervous when I really had to pull. The second route went a lot better except for getting my leg caught in the rope and ending up upside down. But I had made my first EYC final in 9th place - along with the whole team!!
This meant another very early start on Sunday, but with the whole team going down to the wall together, I got psyched pretty quickly.
Being in the top section, I had the longest wait in isolation (with Charlotte and Sarah). After about 3 hours I was the first out of the 3 GB junior girls feeling quite nervous.
The route looked ok until a double dyno quite high up, but I was feeling pretty stressed knowing it was my last ever route in a European and I over gripped and got pumped quickly, I fell a few moves below the dyno.
It turned out 7 of the 10 climbers fell around this move, being separated by +s or count back, leaving me in 9th place.
Although I wasn’t that pleased with my climbing I got my best result and had a great time on my last trip with the lead team.
I finished the season with a world ranking of 9th - quite unexpected :)

Pretty soon after Norway I started Uni and Sheffield.

I lasted about 12 hours before getting ill, then I got tonsillitis and decided it would be better to go home for a couple of days to help me recover.
The second week went a little better though I was still on antibiotics, and unfortunately this was the week of the BLCC's.
I had been really looking forward to this comp, hoping to add the lead title to my bouldering one, so i was really upset I hadn’t been able to train for it properly.

I managed to top the first route in the juniors and do well on my second, qualifying for the final in 2nd place, feeling better than I thought.
However in isolation I suddenly got exhausted and didn’t climb my best in finals and finished in 4th place (congrats to Charlotte for winning in her last year). There wasn’t much time to dwell on the result I had the seniors the next day, so I went back to the hotel and slept from about 7pm.
The next day I did feel a lot better and managed to top both qualifiers, but again in isolation I lost all my energy and got tired ridiculously early on the final route and finished in 6th.
I did speed for a laugh, not expecting there to be 3 very serious competitors. I came last (even Sarah beat me) but it was a lot of fun and so different from other climbing.

r1 juniors

After the BLCC's i only had a week before my first and last junior bouldering European in Laval, France.
Somehow I managed to get tonsillitis again though!

Fortunately by Friday I was eating normally but I was still feeling horrible and couldn’t sleep properly.
I had a great time with the bouldering team though. It didn’t feel like my first bouldering trip at all until Saturday morning. Bouldering comps somehow manage to start even earlier than lead ones!
I set all 4 alarms for 6am and went to bed early.
After a groggy breakfast i was feeling quite psyched and confident heading down to the wall. I started warming up straight away while it wasn’t too busy then we all went to view the problems - about an hour before climbing started.
They all looked hard. I knew that a few were toppable but I wasn’t convinced i could get any in 5 attempts so I picked the one that looked best and decided i would try that first and went back to warming up to stop worrying.
The warm up area wasn’t bad but it was so busy, and I was a bit intimidated by the other climbers.
At 9am we were allowed to start climbing. I knew which problem I was going to do so had another quick look at it then handed my score sheet in. I was the first one on the wall, which never happens! And I managed to flash the problem.
This gave me so much confidence and just got me excited to try the other problems. I got straight on the one next to it, which seemed basic just small holds, and managed to flash this one as well.
By now I was having a really good time so even when I got on the harder problems I was relaxed and could give it everything, especially with the great support from the rest of the team.
For a while I was making progress on problems and getting a few bonuses but not topping so i went and tried one most people had done and managed a relatively easy flash.
With about half an hour to go I was really tired and feeling the effects of being ill, but i was given a biscuit and told what problems to get on by Claire and Michelle (team chaperones) which was great because I was just running between problems wasting time and energy, and I nearly managed another top but my foot slipped on the last move.

By the end of qualification I was really happy with my climbing. I sometimes find it hard to flash problems but I had managed to flash all the ones I topped and I did alright on some of the other problems. But i had just really enjoyed! And it definitely showed me what I wanted to do as a senior.
I finished in 8th, my best ever European result on my first and last junior bouldering European.

Now it was the girls turn to support the rest of the team, who all did amazingly and it was great fun being the loudest team cheering.
By the end of the Saturday qualifications, Nathan had qualified for the finals in his last junior comp and Tara and Hamish had only just missed out (despite Hamish pulling out half way due to injury).
After a lot of food at the hotel we all went back to the arena to watch Nathan in the final.

It was amazing to watch and really inspirational to see him come out and flash the first block then top the second. It was pretty close at the top and in such a strong category we weren’t sure what was going to happen. But Nathan managed to top the third one to win!!!
The whole team was excited to see Nathan on the top of the podium so started learning the words to the national anthem, which we weren’t so good at.

cool holds in the final

After such an exhausting day we were all up early to watch the youth B qualifications. More great performances from GB. Will and Pete got in the finals and Alexia and Ed just missed in 7th.
After another evening screaming we had another podium! Will got 3rd place after a very smooth flash on problem 2.

It was an awesome trip. I loved competing and loved being part of such a talented and supportive team.
It made me realise how much I’m going to miss being a junior but I had a great year to end on: I now have a junior lead world ranking of 9th, a junior bouldering world ranking of 16th and some promising senior performances in Britain.

A Long Summer

Not written a blog in a while because I’ve been away a lot and sorting stuff out for Uni.

But at the start of August it was the final round of the Junior British Bouldering Championships just a couple of days after getting back from Austria. This round was at the depot in Leeds.

It was a pretty relaxed event for me because I had already done enough in previous rounds to win the overall prize. So I was pretty chilled in the qualifiers, I went round the first 6 problems quickly then rested before trying the 2 harder ones. One of the two a few people had topped so I felt I really should but I was really struggling getting the right body position for one of the moves and I couldn’t work it out. The other problem only Tara managed to top so I wasn’t too bothered about not managing it.

I made the final in first place in my category so I forgot about my frustrating qualifiers and ate a load of pasta before going into isolation.

Isolation felt like ages as usual but eventually (about 2 hours later) we were getting ready to climb. Our first problem was a slab with tiny, slopey holds and some sketchy moves that was a lot harder than it looked, but after a bit of a nervous start I managed to flash the problem!

The second problem was the complete opposite: through a big roof on pinches – not my favourite style of climbing at all.

My first go I managed to slap at the penultimate hold, I had my feet a bit wrong but really I just felt tired. I saw the extra foothold though and was about to get back on when the next climbers came out and my timer reset. They hadn’t realised I was still climbing so I looked around pretty confused but was told I could carry on climbing but my timer had carried on counting down. I got back on quickly and hit the same hold and did the same thing on my final, tired attempt. The problem didn’t feel too hard I just powered out. The last problem was on a vertical bit of wall with a hard start into a big volume and an ok top; I managed to flash this problem without too much trouble.

Although I was not completely happy with my performance it was enough to win that round and end the British Bouldering Championships with 3 wins. My first British title.

 

We stayed over in Leeds that night as it was the lead youth open on the Sunday.

I felt a bit more ready for this than the bouldering because I had been training for Imst but my arms were really sore from the day before. My warm up was good though and I started to feel a lot looser.

I was last up on my groups first route so had seen Sarah and Charlotte both top it. I climbed quickly at the start knowing the harder section was at the top, I had a bit of a shake on the small vertical section before the final barrel and I felt ok but as I got into the undercuts and the powerful moves I got pretty pumped and came off slapping for a hold by the last clip. Again I was frustrated but I was still in 3^rd. the second route was a lot harder and after a bad first route I wasn’t feeling great and basically I mucked it up and came 3^rd on this route too. However the final is a new comp so I tried to get psyched for it and I did like the look of the route. So after another long isolation I was climbing again. I started a bit shaky but got into the climbing quickly and was soon near the top but I was pumped and the move was dynamic and I came off, I was equal 2^nd in the final but 3^rd on countback. It wasn’t the result I wanted but I was the only one to have done the bouldering and I knew I was pretty knackered from all the comps close together.

 

I decided to have a week off after these comps because I felt I needed a big rest and we were going on a family holiday anyway so it would be a good time.

 

Once I got home I had a couple of days training then I was on my way to font!

It was my first climbing trip and only my 3^rd time bouldering outside.

 

I set off from home at 10am on Friday and arrived at font at about 5pm on Saturday after a long drive and a short stop in London at Jonny’s for a couple of hours sleep.

We went climbing pretty much straight away.

 

I don’t really know what the climbs were that I did but it was 4 7as (flashed 1) and 2 7a+s along with a few 6s. I had no idea what it would be like so was surprised to get up anything especially with the heat.

It was an amazing trip, it was great to just climb everyday (Probalm was essential) and do something other than training and comps.

Photos by Sarah Pashley

 

team photo waiting for the ferry

I got back last Sunday and I’m back to training for my last ever junior lead European in Norway next weekend. I feel so much better now I’ve had a rest and spent some time enjoying climbing for something other than comps.

We leave on Thursday and I can’t wait!

 

A week after Norway I start at Sheffield University after a ridiculously long summer.

European Championships - Imst

  The European Championships last year in France was my first international and is still the best I've climbed in Europe; because I had no expectations or pressure. In the first European youth series of this year in Ratho I felt I really underperformed because my training was going so well I put too much pressure on myself (and we had a car crash on the way), so before the European Championships in Imst, Austria I did a lot of bouldering and just a few route and circuit sessions to keep my endurance up. This seemed to work really well, I was feeling fit leading up to the comp but also relaxed as I hadn't been obsessing over it.

  The whole of the lead team and the three speed climbers headed out to Imst on Wednesday so we would have plenty of time to settle in before the comp on Saturday.
It really felt like we were on holiday with it being 40 degrees and going swimming and riding the alpine coaster- a really cool ride down the side of a mountain.


Alpine coaster

 

  We went to support the speed climbers on Friday, and it was great to see both Ian Bownes and Orrin Coley get personal bests.
We then had the opening ceremony, all 28 countries walked down the hill to their national anthems in a thunder storm ! Me and Charlotte carried the flag on to the stage then watched a really weird display of what may have been a form of martial arts, still not sure.
By the evening I'd almost forgotten I had to climb, which I was sure would help.

  On Saturday morning the whole team went down to the wall at about 7.45. I was out pretty late on the first route and just before Charlotte so we read the route together then headed indoors for a sweaty warm up.
I feel like I'm still learning at every comp, and this was my first international I really sorted out my warm up and rest time. I was getting ready to climb at about 10.30, by which time it was already 35 degrees.
The first route was long and crimpy and didn't look too hard till near the top. I got into the climb quite quickly after a slightly nervous start, but as soon as I got slightly pumped I became pretty negative and worried and did some silly clips which made it worse. I came off a bit before the steep section knowing I could have done much better if I'd just fought a little. I was 25th on this route so was determined to do better on the next one.

   I was pleased the next one looked much harder with a really sketchy vertical start and a powerful top section. I prefer routes with the harder moves low down.
When I got on the route it was much more technical that it looked with tiny hand holds and awkward feet. I felt pretty comfortable though, I was enjoying the harder moves more than the endurancy style on the previous route. But then my foot popped and I was off.
I was really gutted and annoyed that there was nothing obvious to just go and train for the next comp. I just need to do more of them. I finished in 27th.

   The rest of the day was fun though, watching all the youth B boys crush as usual (especially Jim Pope who qualified for his first international final) and playing beach volleyball. I was soon feeling a lot better and excited about training for Norway in September.

   My family had come up to Imst on Saturday to watch me climb so on Sunday, after watching William and Jim in the final ,  I started another holiday with them.
We went on loads of walks and I took them on the alpine coaster. I went back to the wall on Monday and Tuesday as well.

 

 On Monday I went on the ridiculously steep indoor wall, which is awesome. I barely topped anything but had loads of fun on the crazy routes.

 





I went back on the outdoor wall on Tuesday to get back on the comp routes. I got pretty shut down.

All the routes were really hard, I was only close to topping the youth B girls route, but had fun trying hard on the boys final route.                                                                                                                     

 

I got back on my second comp route and was pleased to do much better but was a bit frustrated by my first comp route and ended up staying at the wall till it was too dark to climb.                                 

 

 

It was nice to be back at MCC today on a more familiar style of climbing.
Next comp is this Saturday, the final round of the Junior British Bouldering, and the Youth open the following day.
I'm well psyched !

Thanks Nicola (my sister) for all the photos :) 

British Bouldering Championships 2013

   This year I went to the BBCs in Sheffield with 2 aims : to be in the top 10 and to get a tan. I only managed one of these but it was because I exceeded the other.
I'm a bit scared of being a real senior next year because the British women are so strong so I really wanted to start putting in some good senior performances this year while there wasn't so much pressure. I was 11th at the CWIF so I thought top 10 would be a good result for the British Bouldering Championships.

   My mum was judging so we had to get to Graves park early for the men's qualifiers, but it was great to watch and get a look at the wall before going into isolation.
I was out around the middle knowing a lot of people had topped the first problem but not always on the first attempt so I went out relatively confidently knowing I should be able to top it, but I was bit horrified to find a slab with hardly any holds, just a big volume to traverse before a simpler top section. There are never problems like this at my local walls so I just jumped on and hoped it would get more obvious. It definitely didn't! I had 6 goes not really getting anywhere but on my 7th something worked, I still have no idea what but I managed to get on top of the volume and do a sketchy shuffle a long it and top the problem.
I was really relieved but knew I needed to do a bit better on the next 4 problems.
   The second problem was way more my style and I got the bonus first go but was really frustrated not to top it. It was just a load of crimps so I really thought I should be able to, I found out later that it was absolutely nails and only Shauna and Alex had topped it, so I let myself off.
   I managed to flash the third one though it was a bit of a fight but then get nowhere on the fourth. By the fifth problem I was pleased to be back on a slab again and was really made up to top this problem after a really awkward match on the penultimate hold.
I finished qualifiers in 8th place with the top 20 progressing to semi's. Tara Hayes had an absolutely amazing qualifying round finishing in joint 3rd at only 16! What a beast! 

 

 

(problem 5)

I was thankful we were staying the night in Sheffield as I was shattered and would never have managed a 6.30 start the next morning. Instead I got to wake up at 7.30 and have a monster breakfast before heading back to Graves park, which was already about 25 degrees at 9 am.

   I was a lot more psyched for the semis but nervous I wouldn't hold my 8th place.
The first problem looked a lot more burly than anything the day before, big moves between slopers.
I got to the bonus on my first go, just, but then missed a small screw-on on the volume so fell. I was gutted as I knew it was a real fight and I thought I couldn't do it again, my second go was pretty rubbish and I felt close to shutting down but I made myself stand up straight and smile, which did pick me up a lot so I got back on determined and managed to top out on my third attempt.

(problem 1)

 

                          (My best attempt on problem 3)

   The second problem was much easier with all 20 women topping and the other 2 problems were desperate so the first problem was crucial for the results after 4th place. Because I got it 3rd go I ended up in 5th place ! And 6 go through to finals ! Definitely making that my best comp day ever.
I was so happy, really surprised and a bit nervous to be in a final with 4 British senior team members and an American team member.
I felt pretty out of place in isolation but everyone was really nice and made sure I understood everything as I hadn't been in a big senior bouldering final before.
I didn't do much warming up as I was still quite warm from the semis and was so tired after trying really hard in both qualifiers and semis.
All the finalists were then introduced to the crowd supporting CAC http://www.climbersagainstcancer.org/ - a great cause with really nice t-shirts.

 

   We then viewed the problem. They didn't look so bad so I relaxed a little.
I was wrong though. They were well hard and a massive step up from any comp I've been in before.
I managed to get 1 bonus. I felt I should have been able to get higher on the other problems but I hadn't expected to be doing more climbing and was just too tired to pull hard.
I finished in 6th place, without a tan.

   It was a great experience and I felt like the whole comp made me a better climber and I cant wait to get training again after a couple of days rest for much needed recovery.

   Congrats to Shauna and Dave who both managed to retain their British Champion titles and my coach James Garden who came 2nd ! Bit gutted I didn't get to watch this happen.
Orrin Coley, another junior, also managed an awesome 10th place in a ridiculously strong men's field.

   It was great to see the Probalm stand at cliffhanger and pick up some more of their extra strong stuff, as I had nearly finished mine before the finals after all the volumes in previous rounds leaving my skin very thin.

BMC report and full results here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/british-bouldering-championships-2013-report
The whole of the comp is also on youtube :
qualifiers http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WNoEUhTuys
semis http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lhzdi2meqJE
finals http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbQ4LuCzENc

Thought i'd make a blog ..

   On Saturday I went to Awesome Walls Stockport for their Summer Psyche bouldering comp. It was pretty perfect timing for some comp practice before the senior BBC's next weekend and it would be a good opportunity to sort out when to climb the week before and eating on the day, which I always find difficult during a comp.

The comp had a pretty standard format of 25 qualifying problems and a 4 min + final with 4 problems.
I got 213 points in qualifiers which I was pretty happy with, mainly because I flashed all but two of the problems I topped, which is normally a weakness of mine. One of the two was a weird slab so I was pleased to make it to the top at all.
I finished qualifiers in first place so was through to the final with 4 others.
We had a couple of hours to wait so I bought a new brush as I'd got a bit angry with one problem. But now I have a pink one !

The final was pretty chilled with us just turning round while other competitors climbed but I got a bit nervous as I'd put the pressure on myself to flash all the problems, this meant I ended up using way too much liquid chalk just so I had something to do while I waited .
But I did manage to flash them all to win the comp so now I'm well psyched for the BBC's.
I had a great time at the comp and the prizes were awesome too so I hope it happens again next year!


first problem in finals