Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Nanjing 2014

   This year has been a big one for my climbing. I made the decision to switch from route climbing to bouldering and it has really paid off. I noticed improvements straight away by focussing on bouldering and getting stronger and now nearly a year later I have put my harness back on and I am much better at routes too.

   Since deciding to be primarily a boulderer I've been to two World Cups. My first was in Baku, Azerbaijan. I am not sure why I thought this would be a good idea for my first senior international as the travelling was hard work, eating was hard work, and then there was the climbing. But I don't regret it all, it was a great experience and I've been to Azerbaijan !
I came 27th with 1 flash and a massive flapper, definitely a result to be improved upon but not a bad debut.
Baku- photo by The Circuit Climbing
The Second Problem fought back

   My next World Cup was Laval in France. It was much easier to get to and slightly easier to find vegetarian food. It was also after my exams and I had been the previous year for the Junior competition so I felt much more relaxed. I topped 3 problems in 4 attempts and got 4 bonuses. I was really happy with how I had climbed. I kept making progress on the second problem and think I could have topped it with a little more time. I felt really comfy on the third problem and also flashed the last one, a dyno ! I needed to be a bit stronger for the 4th but I'm working on that. I finished 33rd (in a bigger field than Baku).

   The biggest part of my year was going to Nanjing, China for the Youth Olympic Games.
I have always wanted to be in the Olympics and even more so after getting to go to watch some of the events in London, so when I got the call from Rob saying I had been picked by the IFSC to be the British representative for the youth Olympics I was very happy! I know it isn't the actual Olympics but it is a step closer.
  Climbing was part of the Sports Lab with 3 other sports (Wushu, Skateboarding and Speed Skating). These sports were not run as a competition but as an exhibition to try and impress the public and the International Olympic Committee. There was also initiation time where the public and other athletes could have a go at the sports.
   The 16 climbers from all over the world were in Nanjing for 11 days and did 30 minutes exhibition time twice a day everyday (with 1 rest day), we also did a lot of climbing before and after because the boulders and routes were so good, and then a lot of the initiation time was pushing children up the wall so it was hard work (all in 40 degree heat). All of us were aching a lot and in need of a physio by about the 3rd day and skin was running low (though thanks to Probalm my wasn't too bad considering) but it was still the best experience of my life.
   We were treated like Usain Bolt signing autographs and featuring in many selfies. All of the climbers got on really well and I really hope we get to see each other again, and we really showed how good climbing is. Everyone seemed to love it and it was the busiest sport during the initiation time with many people coming to climb on multiple days.
The Wall
Not psyched for skateboarding


The last meal


                                         One of the Boulders for the exhibition 
 
   Since I got back from China I have mainly been training for the British Lead Climbing Championships. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get fit enough in time but I'm really enjoying being back on a rope and it's nice not to take a comp too seriously.
  The Depot Leeds summer boulder comp recently finished, it was a great comp with really nice problems and I really had to try hard to get the win.
the Depot Leeds

   I have also recently been sponsored by Chia Charge! Their flapjacks are amazing and the added chia seeds means more potassium, iron, fibre, protein and many more good things than a normal flapjack. I'm finding my training sessions last much longer and are better quality when I have a Chia Charge flapjack to nibble on.
If you want to try them click on the image of the flapjack to the right and use the code JWC10 to get a 10% discount.








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